THE BEST EURO VALUES      There's no getting around it. The dollar has continued its decline against the euro, hitting record lows in recent weeks. For tried-and-true Francophiles, these are challenging times. But there is good news. Values still abound. And renting a house or apartment remains one of the best, because it allows you to control your daily expenses.      Meals represent the biggest chunk. At hotels, breakfast for a family of four can run from $60-$95 per day before you've even hit the streets. When you choose a home rental, you save hundreds of dollars on breakfast alone. And the taste of crusty bread, flaky croissants or buttery brioche fresh from the local baker's oven is a daily delight.      In France, where food is a priority 365 days a year, you can easily assemble wonderful lunches and dinners. Take advantage of the local open-air markets, a weekly event. There you'll find all your favorites: fresh fruit and vegetables, an array of cheeses, cured meats and sausages - perfect fare for lunch or a light supper. For more substantial meals, pick up a rotisserie chicken, fresh off the spit. The vendor will baste the luscious bird and put it in an oven-ready bag for reheating. He may also sell other roast meats and crisp potatoes. Add a salad, local wines, a decadent dessert, and you've got a meal that's delectable, effortless and - euro for euro - a great value!      For other easy-meal options, check out the local traiteur, a combination deli-catering shop. You'll find a selection of mouth-watering, fully-prepared foods: main dishes such as paella, roast pork, leg of lamb and poached fish; and wonderful vegetables and side dishes both hot and cold. Yummy, very French and much less expensive than a restaurant!      Some additional tips to make sure you're getting the best value for your vacation budget: •   Make as many of your travel arrangements as possible ahead of time and lock in the dollar rate. Along with airfare, rent or lease your car and buy train tickets. For travel within France, ask about special passes and/or rates. Flying from Paris to your destination may be no more expensive (and sometimes even less) than taking the train. Keep your eye out for museum passes that offer reduced entry rates. You may be able to buy some - like the Paris Museum Pass - online prior to departure.

•   In France, take advantage of the best exchange rate by using your credit card or getting cash from the ATM machine. If your credit card company charges a premium for foreign transactions (as high as 3%), consider a card with lower or no foreign currency fees. And don't worry about locating an ATM for your cash needs. They are easily accessible in most villages, larger towns and cities. •   To keep restaurant costs down, splurge at lunch. At most restaurants, the lunch menu is identical to the one offered at dinner, except for the price. Lunch is usually a bargain with savings of 15-30% over dinner as well as great-value, prix-fixe menus available only at lunchtime. SPRING UPDATE      Getting a late start on your travel plans? There's still time to enjoy all the comforts of your own home, especially if your dates are flexible. Here is a sampling of properties offering excellent value and available weeks. •   In St-Rémy, you'll have several choices. There's a cozy 2-bedroom, 1 bath apartment with pretty garden (Ref. AH03). Try our townhouse with 3 bedrooms, 1-1/2 baths and roof-top terrace (Ref. AH79). Or settle into a charming cottage with 2 bedrooms and 2 baths and pretty garden (Ref. AH61). At all three, it's an easy walk to shops, restaurants and cafés. And just 5 minutes driving from town, your dream-come-true may be this 18th-century mas, lovingly renovated and beautifully decorated. 3 bedrooms, 1-1/2 baths and a lovely garden with pool for 6 people (Ref. AH78). •   At St-Saturnin, you'll experience life in the heart of a picturesque perched village complete with ruins of a medieval chateau. Shops, restaurants and a weekly open-air market are steps away. Totally private, the property is enclosed by high stone walls and features two courtyards filled with trees, vines, flowers and hanging plants. Dating from the 15th century, the house has tremendous Provençal character and features original vaulted ceilings in the living room, dining room and kitchen. 4 bedrooms and 3 baths for up to 8 people (Ref. AH63).                 . . . continued on next page

. . . continued •   If you've dreamed of living in a small French seaside village and waking up to views of the Mediterranean, this apartment can't be beat! Located in Cassis, one of the most picturesque and charming villages on the Côte Bleue south of Marseille, the apartment is just a short walk from the village and the beach. The apartment includes a spacious private roof terrace with panoramic views of the Mediterranean and over the countryside. Inside, the modern apartment is decorated with casual, comfortable furnishings. 2 bedrooms and 2 baths for 4 people (Ref. AH23). •   If you prefer the delights of the countryside, there are also excellent choices. Spectacular views of the Dentelles de Montmirail, vineyards and valleys await you at this old mas just a short drive from the village of Beaumes de Venise. Running the length of the front of the house is an arbored terrace, the perfect spot for leisurely outdoor meals and savoring the magnificent views. 3 bedrooms and 2 baths accommodate 6 people (Ref. AH75). •   And in the Luberon, you'll look up to the hilltop village of Menerbes from le Colombier, an 18th-century bergerie. It's hard to resist this Provençal pearl set in a wooded garden with swimming pool, stone fountain and gracious French country furnishings. 3 bedrooms and 2 baths for 6 people (Ref. AH33). MESMERIZING MARVELS      Two noteworthy sights for your "must-see" list: •   The medieval fortress of les Baux is a three-star tourist attraction, with its dramatic setting high on a rocky spur south of the Alpilles in Provence. The rock formations are among the most spectacular in France and were the site of booming limestone quarries, most abandoned by the 1950s.      Occupying one of these abandoned quarries is the Cathédrale d'Images, founded in 1977 by Albert Plécy, a journalist with an interest in the power of images and photographic innovation. The quarry's colossal limestone walls, ceiling and floor provide 40,000 square feet of three-dimensional screens for a phenomenal multimedia exposition whose subject changes every year.      On our visit last fall, the city of Venice was portrayed through art, photography and music. In 2008, the exposition is dedicated to the renowned artist, Vincent Van Gogh. This lesser-known sight is one of the most remarkable venues we have ever seen. And the quality and imagination of the portrayal is in a word - extraordinary. On the D27 road, 300 meters north of les Baux. Open daily through January 4, 2009. 10 am - 7 pm from 4/1 - 9/30. Other months, 10 am - 6 pm. 7.50 € for adults, 3.50€ for children. •   In the Dordogne, prehistoric caves are the main attraction and rightly so. This is one of the unique places in the world where you can experience the earliest human civilizations. And in the interest of preservation, the most renowned caves, such as Lascaux, are open only to scientists.

Which is why you should not miss Font-de-Gaume, among the last caves with multicolored paintings open to the public. Set above a valley, the entrance to the cave conceals a narrow twisting passage along which the 15,000-year-old paintings are revealed by a knowledgeable guide.      The paintings feature 230 animals, including bison, mammoths, horses, reindeer, goats, wolves and bears. The cave and its art are absolutely magical. To preserve the paintings, lighting is kept to a minimum, as are people: just 200 are allowed to visit the caves daily. Our guide emphasized that the paintings are deteriorating, and the cave may not remain open to the public for much longer.      In les Eyzies, on the D47 road towards Sarlat. Advance reservations required. Tel. 05 53 06 86 00. Open 5/17 - 9/15: 9:30 am - 5:30 pm. 9/16 - 5/14: 9: 30 am - 12:30 and 2-5:30 pm. AHIF RECOMMENDS . . . •   A breath of fresh air in St-Rémy, le Mirabeau is a bistro-bar-café and a perfect choice for lunch or a light dinner. Main-course salads are exceptional with quality mesclun, market-fresh vegetables, smoked meat and fish offerings. The menu also features savory tartes and a plat du jour (daily special), usually the chef's take on a regional classic. Complementing the creative food is a reasonably-priced wine list. And save room for dessert. Their ice cream and sweet selections are a treat too. Moderately priced with à la carte dishes from 10-15€. 3 bd Mirabeau, St-Rémy de Provence Tel. 04 90 92 26 81. •   In Dordogne, le Bistrot d'Epicure is a welcome addition to the local restaurant scene. The surroundings are comfortable with pastel walls and well-spaced tables, and in warmer months, you can dine on the outdoor patio.      The food features a wide range of creatively prepared dishes, and the menu changes regularly. On our visit, starters included carpaccio of foie gras, house-smoked salmon with chive cream, and scallop mousse with grilled prawns. Main courses ranged from roasted monkfish medallions with tarragon butter, to veal tournedos with a fricassée of earthy cêpes mushrooms. Local cheeses and imaginative desserts round out the menu, all accented by well-priced regional wines.      Three-course meals from 28-40€. Chef Christophe worked at the highly-respected Vélo Rouge before going out on his own. Out of high season, he also offers cooking services at your home, which we enjoyed and highly recommend. "Argentonesse," 24220 Castels. Tel. 05 53 30 40 95. BON VOYAGE!       Our warmest wishes to you - our clients - for the best of trips to France and Spain!         - Allyn Kaufmann & Bruce Dicoskey